Creamed Greens on Toast

Inspired by the creamed and smothered greens Jason French cooks at Ned Ludd, I’ve created my own version. I’m pretty sure Jason’s have some pork parts, and their addition would be appropriate (like a few slices of bacon, cut up and cooked in the olive oil before adding the onion). An optional splash of fish sauce provides an extra hit of umami. At Ned Ludd the greens go on brioche toasted in the wood oven; at my house it’s New Seasons’ wheat levain.

Chiffonade a bunch of collards or kale (cavolo nero is my choice) by rolling several leaves in a tight bundle, then slicing across the stem into half inch ribbons. Cut these into slightly shorter pieces. Chop an onion and cook it in a bit of olive oil for a few minutes. Add the greens, and if you’ve got some, a shot of fish sauce (maybe a tablespoon or so), and maybe a half cup of water. Cover, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for at least 40 minutes.

When the greens are very tender, remove the lid, add about a half cup of cream (or creme fraiche), bump up the heat to medium, and let them cream bubble away gently for another 10 minutes or so. Serve over grilled or toasted bread, an intact slice for a more dramatic look, toasted then cubed for easier eating. A final drizzle of good extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of flor de sal, and eat.